January 16th, 2013

friday

Blast from the past: Carine Roitfeld

hi, guys! i was away for a while and there was so much thing going on. I was working hard and started collecting a new era of magazines for me - 70`s-80`s and finally started a serious collection of Helmut Newton whom i was inside since my childhood and whom actually modeled my view on women, aesthetic and sexuality in some way (his Wolford campaigns in 96-98 was the ones i admire back then, when i was in my pre-teen age). Now i am back and i just hope that i can share with you my thought, opinions, precious materials and exclusives more often, since i always have something to say, and my collection grown much much bigger.
Today i am gonna tell you about vintage Carine Roitfeld stuff. She is very infamous at the moment: that new Bazaar position, her magazine etc (however lately she dissapeared from the scen and last 2-3 months weren]t as fruitful as the whole passed year, but i guess it is just a lull before the storm), but back then, in 1994 she was just a regular stylist at French Conde Nast`s Vogue & Glamour. Her styling is always very determinated, recognizable, cutting edge and still very modern, even now, almost 20 years after. I guess, that`s because she didn`t follow the norms of good-taste, she just followed he instinct, that§s why she ussually combined white pumps with black outfit, put together accessories from whole different stories or just mix classic stuff with a super trendy fast -fashion elements, yes , sometimes it provokes the thing called in french "le mavais gout", but as maestro Helmut Newton said in his autobiography: "I am very attracted by bad taste - it is a lot more exciting than that supposed good taste which is nothing more than a standardized way of looking at things." Carine is not standardized, and she was always into something very particular and personal, and i guess that`s the reason of her success, not fast, but i guess, slow stars are true stars...
Below you `ll see a quite rare and fameless story, however, you `ll see Yasmeen Ghauri, a very on -demand model of 90`s with super feminine shapes whom stars in Organza of Givenchy, Male model is looking exactly as a young Duran-Duran`s keyboardist Nick Rhodes. The story is supposed to getting us back in 40`s, it is a new view on retro in 90s. So, get ready

Vogue Paris february 1994
Yasmeen Ghauri & by Mario Testino
styled by Carine Roitfeld



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friday

Blast from the past: Carine Roitfeld

That story is made also under Carine direction, but this time it is much more about character, personality and portrait story. Karen playing here temperamental Italian, tomboy, sweet girl, a funny one, a dramatic woman and arrogant wench. It was a time of glory for Karen Mulder, a star model from Netherlands with very commercial appearance and very traumatic past. She was a muse for legendary Yves Saint Laurent, as well as for Helmut Newton, and often guest on covers of top-notch publications and a true super-model, but that doesn`t help. She has numerous nervous breakdowns, suicide attempts and strange past (perhaps it is just her imagination as a result of her emotional unstability, but who knows) with rapes by her father and her agent at Elite Model. Drug addictions, depressions, rehabs - all this was at the beginning of zeroes, at the moment she is not working, sometimes you can observe her as a guest at different parties and in Olivier Zahm blog and that`s it. Concerning styling - it is the one of Carine cliche and very beloved theme of her in early 90`s - sport+chic, new designers combined with streetswear. Carine always supported newcomer talents, not yet famous on a big fashion scene. So here you can see pieces by Martine Sitbon (now working for Rue du Mail), Helmut Lang and Comme des garcons as a representative of fashion undergroung and avant-garde. It is tacky here, but Carine is not affraid to make mistakes and that`s the reason why i love her, because you will never know if you won`t try...

Glamour France april 1994
Karen Mulder by Marc Hispard
styled by Carine Roitfeld



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